Some practical advice for Italian wine producers

In a recent email exchange with an Italian producer, whose wines we hope to import, I wrote:

As you know, these are very hard times here, and even the restaurants and wine shops with a reputation for high quality (and prices) are buying much less expensive wines now.  People want their wine, but they're paying less for it.  The more expensive ones aren't selling at all.  I know you were a bit shocked by the price we proposed, but to introduce your wines to the US, in these times, it's the only practical way.

Anyone who sells wine, at any level in the distribution chain, will assent to this in an instant.

Aside from waking up and observing market reality, Italian producers can reduce their costs by taking a few simple steps.  The most obvious and important of them is ecologically responsible and a boon to merchants and consumers alike:

Use lighter, less expensive bottles.   

Yes, folks, it's that simple.  

How many times have I struggled to fit an extra-long bottle into my Winecruzer or a box?  How many times have I lugged a thick, superheavy bottle around town all day?  For a wine that sells on the shelf for about $10?  

That's crazy.  It costs more to ship, contributes to the combustion of more petroleum products and does nothing but satisfy the ego of the producer -- or is expressive of his misguided marketing acumen.  He may think he's sending a signal to the market that his wine is important or of high quality.  

To me it's just as much a signal that he's trying to cover what he perceives to be a deficiency in the wine.  

The Domenico Selections Soave producer, I Stefanini, uses standard-issue Bordeaux-style bottles for all their wines.  Francesco Tessari saves money on these bottles and passes the savings on to us and, ultimately, to the consumer.  His wines are great, and their price/quality ratio makes them even better.

One more suggestion for Italian wine producers -- one that very few of them seem willing to consider for a moment: use screw caps.  If your wine will retail for (say) under $15 in the States, trust me, it's meant for early drinking.  The screw cap may not scream "class," but it does suggest that the wine is fresh and easy to drink.  Embrace that idea.  

Though I must add: if you're keeping the cork, use a good one.  Do not compromise on the quality of the cork.  Save me a lot of expense, embarrassment and the inevitable volley of curses that are the sound track of my higher blood pressure when I open a bad bottle.  Do it for old Strappo.

    

Comments

[gianpaolo]

Yes the bottles. Now I've changed them three-four years ago, big, heavy (650gr. I've tryed to find the same kind but lighter, but nope, they don't make it, and I wish I haven't done it. Let's be honest, they are a bit tacky but they look nice. It's more difficult to go back now, maybe I'll do it but not now, too scared to change anything. It must be noted, however, than the difference in price between a "standard" bordeaux bottle (400 gr, pretty ugly I have to say) and a 650gr bottle is "only" 15 cents of a euro. Not really that much money difference to make a 14.99 wine into a 9.99 wine, is it? But every little help, I agree.
Screw caps. Yes, except that they are not allowed on top wines (DOCGs, but also other DOCs deny the possibility), and they are not cheap. Plus the machine needed to put them in place of a cork costs a lot if you have to buy it, and you don't want to hire a mobile bottling line if you own one at your winery (it wasn't cheap when you bought it, oh no).
Nothing is simple, in the end, I'm afraid. What about talking about the wines as well, I mean, the liquid inside the bottle. Is it out of fashion now?
Not one of your winery, but a fervent admirer! Ciao.

[Strappo]

GPP, it's never out of fashion to talk about what's in the bottle!

(Although you might check this post on mondosapore for my thoughts about that http://www.mondosapore.com/mondosapore/2009/04/the-problem-of-authenticity.html )

Remember 15 euro cents translates, ultimately, to about $1 US with transport, markups etc. A cheaper bottle would help a bit in these times.

I can see why DOCG's forbid screw caps, but, frankly, I think the DOC's are making a mistake. In the US, I can't think of any DOCG wines that retail for under $15; there are DOC's that do, but exactly how good a guarantee of anything is that appellation, really?

A lot of our producers are very small and have to hire out their bottling. So...

You're not one of our producers...but we're watching you, boy!

[Julian Bray UK]

With great respect I think you miss the point. The problem with winesales
in the Uk is simply the astronomical tax applied to the product and the loss leaders fromthe likes of tesco, aldi and even asda. The Uk public will pay for quality wines but from established vintners. I say this having owned wine bars and pubs ove the years . Pubs are currently (April 2009) closing at the rate of 40 a week! You also have the euro verses sterling situation, so that effectively hikes the import price up.

[Strappo]

Julian, I missed no point. We both come to the problem with different perspectives and wishes. Both are valid as far as they go.

I don't know about Britain, but the famed American "three-tier" system is effectively a big tax on everyone from the importer to the consumer.

[gianpaolo]

I agree with Julian about the taxes and the perception about prices generated by loss leaders in supermarket. I've heard comments about some good wine that would be too expensive at 9 pounds a bottle, when I know that to be at that price the wine mustn't leave the country of orgin more than 3 euros a bottle. Now, it's not easy to make quality in europe below that price, so I think that is unfair that people aren't able to judge what is really the a fair price for a bottle of wine.