Angelo Peretti is a well-known wine journalist based in Verona, the "capital" of Valpolicella. His Internet Gourmet site is well-written, precise, succinct -- a rare combination in prolix Italia. In his review, posted on Friday, Angelo gives a brief backgrounder on Villa Monteleone and how Dr. Anthony Raimondi of Chicago, who virtually created the field of pediatric neurosurgery, came to settle in Valpolicella in the last years of his life. His widow, Lucia Duran, carries on her husband's dream and has built a small but sterling reputation for her (dare I say it) terroir-driven wines. Click here for Angelo's review -- in Italian.
I will translate Lucia's quote in the article. "My idea is to make traditional wines. I don't like the globalization of wine. Maybe that's what the market wants, but sooner or later the pendulum will swing the other way, towards typicity. I make 30-35,000 bottles a year, and I can't believe that, all around the world, there are only 30,000 people who think like me."
Angelo points out one of the key attributes of all Villa Monteleone wines, their peppery quality. Truly a matter of terroir, as he says. The luscious fruit and restrained use of oak are also hallmarks of the winery, which dances on the edge of tradition and modernity with considerable grace. In the review Angelo calls the enologo, Federico Giotto, "un genietto" -- something of a genius. Or perhaps "the boy wonder," since he is only 32 years old.
Old cask at Villa Monteleone
I point this out why?
Because by the early part of July we will be offering Villa Monteleone's superb ripasso, the 2004 San Vito, to our customers. From September (next shipment) we will also offer the Santa Lena Valpolicella Classico 2007, a "base" Valpo with everything you could want in an everyday red wine.
Grazie, dottore e grazie, cara Lucia.
I'm very happy for my dear friend Lucia, I like a lot her wines! and yes, Federico Giotto is really "un genietto": a little genius!
L.
Posted by: Lizzy | 05/26/2009 at 06:03 AM
As you know, Lizzy, we have been working on this a long time. We're very excited to have Villa Monteleone here in the NY area.
The new Santa Lena is far better than the previous recent vintages, so we think it will be a big success this autumn and winter.
Posted by: Strappo | 05/26/2009 at 09:51 AM