I've written about how 90 points can change your life
A high Wine Spectator or Parker score gets you a direct hit into the consciousness of a wine retailer. Even if they don't post score shelf-talkers all over the place, it gets their attention and causes them to slow down a little, listen and really taste (or re-taste after a summary first rejection).
But what if one of those esteemed scoring agencies awards a slightly lower score -- 88, say, or the so-close-it-hurts 89? Even though there is an estimable blog about this very thing, I think I may summarize the effect in two words: So what?
This happened with a number of our Campanian wines after we submitted them to Antonio Galloni, who segued from the Piedmont Report to eBob. Many of them received very good but not great scores -- 88 and 89 points*.
Speaking for myself, I think many of these wines are worthy of 90+. But there are or were several factors why they weren't deemed so:
- A matter of personal taste. Maybe he likes more "international" wines? Like Montevetrano. But no, he seems to like others that are much more of their place, as I do. Inconclusive on that score.
- I'm prejudiced and Galloni wasn't. There's always that elusive mix of self-interest and enthusiasm to reckon with. (If I haven't got that, I haven't got anything. Might as well fold the tent and go home.)
- The wines were still shocked from their long trip across ye bounding main. And/or some of them were too young. The condition of the wines is always a factor in determining their quality at that moment in time. Jeff thinks this is the likeliest reason, and I like to think he's right.
Whatever the reasons, the 88-89 scores haven't helped sales of these wines much. This certainly isn't Galloni's fault -- it's just that a hook to grab the retailer's attention isn't there. What has sold these wines is trial -- tasting with an open mind and appreciating the wines for their varietal typicity, their price, their suitability for food pairing at a restaurant, etc. This is where hustle comes in, and where the famed "relationship business" stuff plays a big role.
It's also about discernment. If a wine is very good but doesn't sport 90 points or doesn't slot into a tried-and-true category, you'd better have a damned good idea of who will go for it before you walk in the door.
For the record, what were those 88-89 pointers?
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