Muddy Boots

89 points: below the threshold of a dream

I've written about how 90 points can change your life

A high Wine Spectator or Parker score gets you a direct hit into the consciousness of a wine retailer.  Even if they don't post score shelf-talkers all over the place, it gets their attention and causes them to slow down a little, listen and really taste (or re-taste after a summary first rejection).  

But what if one of those esteemed scoring agencies awards a slightly lower score -- 88, say, or the so-close-it-hurts 89?  Even though there is an estimable blog about this very thing, I think I may summarize the effect in two words: So what?

It's such an honor just to be nominated

This happened with a number of our Campanian wines after we submitted them to Antonio Galloni, who segued from the Piedmont Report to eBob.  Many of them received very good but not great scores -- 88 and 89 points*.

Speaking for myself, I think many of these wines are worthy of 90+.  But there are or were several factors why they weren't deemed so:

- A matter of personal taste.  Maybe he likes more "international" wines?  Like Montevetrano.  But no, he seems to like others that are much more of their place, as I do.  Inconclusive on that score.  

- I'm prejudiced and Galloni wasn't.  There's always that elusive mix of self-interest and enthusiasm to reckon with.  (If I haven't got that, I haven't got anything.  Might as well fold the tent and go home.)

- The wines were still shocked from their long trip across ye bounding main.  And/or some of them were too young.  The condition of the wines is always a factor in determining their quality at that moment in time. Jeff thinks this is the likeliest reason, and I like to think he's right. 

Whatever the reasons, the 88-89 scores haven't helped sales of these wines much.  This certainly isn't Galloni's fault -- it's just that a hook to grab the retailer's attention isn't there.  What has sold these wines is trial -- tasting with an open mind and appreciating the wines for their varietal typicity, their price, their suitability for food pairing at a restaurant, etc.  This is where hustle comes in, and where the famed "relationship business" stuff plays a big role.  

It's also about discernment.  If a wine is very good but doesn't sport 90 points or doesn't slot into a tried-and-true category, you'd better have a damned good idea of who will go for it before you walk in the door.  

For the record, what were those 88-89 pointers?

      

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Another Typepad moment: See here for final part of previous post

 

Grrrr!   Here's what wasn't so clear:

We searched high and low for these new producers, always aware of the basic 

requirement to source 

good wine, full of regional and varietal character and at an attractive price.

In these hard economic times, it's why the start-up (or up-start) 

Domenico Selections has begun its life 

prospering while others are taking a hit.

 By the way, it's no accident that we are still weighted toward the South.  

Campania and Basilicata, for example, still offer relatively low prices next to 

Tuscany and Piedmont, and their wines are not only better-

priced, they're far more typical of their terroirs that many of the 

"blasonati" (ballyhooed) wines of the

northerly regions.

Whatevz. Yes, Typepad isn't the ideal blogging platform.  But Wordpress -- really??

See our site -- new producers, new regions, new nectars of the gods

It's up!  The expanded Domenico Selections website!

We've added five producers in three new regions.  The new ones are in Green.

In each instance the process to "interview" and negotiate with a producer takes months (even years), and we spend many a soul-searching hour discussing the pros and cons of each winery and its products.  (Forgive me, Polly Pure, but wines ARE products that must find buyers, plural, in the marketplace, or no one eats dinner.  And you don't get all your freebies at tastings and on winery escapades.)

A few highlights of the new selections:

* Freisa, mon amour.  I love this grape and Cascina Gilli's way with it.  

* Ripasso?  You never had it so good, brother, you never had it so good. See Villa Monteleone.  (It's a little Harold MacMillan humour.  By the way, he is a distant kinsman of mine.  So very very distant.)

* Montepulciano d'Abruzzo.  You know the wine bottle with the cute little twig on it?  Forget about it.  See Costantini.

* You think you know Mustilli?  In Campania?  You don't know Mustilli, pal -- you really need to keep up.

* Too many Aglianicos?  Not once you've tasted these Aglianicos from Musto Carlmelitano.  This is what I believe is called a Ground Floor Opportunity.  (Remember what happened to those who hesitated and doubted before the Wine Spectator scored our I Stefanini Soaves so high?  Those poor fools.  Out of the allocation.)  Don't say I didn't warn you. Per esempio...

search for wine by type, grape or region	PRODUCERS FROM BASILICATA: Musto-Carmelitano BACK TO REGIONS PAGE Musto-Carmelitano family, Elisabetta and her brother at right, her father and uncle at left This is an extraordinary story. Twenty years ago Uncle Giuseppe declared that his 8-year-old great-niece Elisabetta would inherit the property he had painstakingly acquired since his return from years as a POW in Australia. Elisabetta took the call seriously, and she has devoted herself ever since to the stewardship of the family’s lands – and the development of a serious winery. Betty has been running the show since she was in her teens. Some of her vineyards are made up of 90+ year old vines, while she has put together other parcels of land with vines that are "merely" 40 or so years old, and others that are quite new. She is out to make the best Aglianico possible in her prime part of the Vùlture appellation. We’re thrilled to offer her first export vintage, two crus that speak eloquently of the hard beauty of the land and of her determination to live up to the honor and responsibility she was given. We tasted these wines, looked at one another and agreed: "This could be the start of something big." Aglianico Vineyards   THE WINES Serra del Prete 2007 Pian del Moro 2007 Azienda Agricola Musto-Carmelitano Elisabetta Maschito (PZ)

PRODUCERS FROM PIEDMONT Cascina Gilli PRODUCERS FROM VENETO I Stefanini Villa Monteleone PRODUCERS FROM TUSCANY Piandibugnano Schiaccionaia PRODUCERS FROM ABRUZZO Costantini PRODUCERS FROM PUGLIA Mazzone PRODUCERS FROM CAMPANIA Angelarosa Boccella Mustilli Reale Terra Di Vento PRODUCERS FROM BASILICATA Musto-Carmelitano We searched high and low for these new producers, always aware of the basic requirement to source good wine, full of regional and varietal character and at an attractive price.   In these hard economic times, it's why the start-up (or up-start) Domenico Selections has begun its life prospering while others are taking a hit. By the way, it's no accident that we are still weighted toward the South.  Campania and Basilicata, for example, still offer relatively low prices next to Tuscany and Piedmont, and their wines are not only better- priced, they're far more typical of their terroirs that many of the "blasonati" (ballyhooed) wines of the northerly regions.

  

Back by popular demand: Pouring at Ambassador Wines

Pouring at Ambassador Wines Friday evening

July 24 5-8 pm

 

Come buy wine.  And booze.  They have an awesome selection of Scotches, and more.

1020 2nd Ave

at 54th Street
New York, NY 10022
(212) 421-5078

Mon-Thu 9:00am-10:00pm
Fri 9:00am-12:00am --> I'll be pouring from 5 to 8 pm
Sat 10:00am-12:00am 
Sun 12:00pm-8:00pm

I like their hours.  You have to be a poor planner indeed not to get a bottle when you want it.  And, as this is New York, they deliver too.

July 24 5-8 pm

 

Come buy wine.  And booze.  They have an awesome selection of Scotches, and more.

1020 2nd Ave

at 54th Street
New York, NY 10022
(212) 421-5078

Mon-Thu 9:00am-10:00pm
Fri 9:00am-12:00am --> I'll be pouring from 5 to 8 pm
Sat 10:00am-12:00am 
Sun 12:00pm-8:00pm

I like their hours.  You have to be a poor planner indeed not to get a bottle when you want it.  And, as this is New York, they deliver too.

Help still wanted: Uncle Jeff wants YOU

Domenico Selections is still looking for sales people, this time for coverage of all of Long Island (including Queens and Brooklyn), and/or Westchester and other Hudson Valley counties.  

Good commission structure.  

Expense allowance.  

Wine sales experience preferred. 

Contact jeff@domenicoselections.com

  

Reale's new web site

While we await the updates to the expanded Domenico Selections site, I thought it would be both informative and pleasant to dip into the spiffy new site of Azienda Agricola Reale Andrea -- Reale, for short -- which is available in Italian and what I assume to be a machine-translated English.

Here is the link that enables you to skip the flash front page with its inevitable music:  link!  

For those of you who have followed mondosapore or Muddy Boots for a while, these few pictures of Gigi Reale's place may be familiar.  The natural setting is inspiring, and the century-old vineyard of the Tintore grape is the closest to the enchanted feeling of a paradise (from the Persian: walled garden) as you'll ever get.  

Then, when you get hungry, eat at Gigi's wonderful osteria, which is all about local dishes made with top-quality, fresh ingredients.  And wash it down with any of his lovely wines.  Believe me, it's an outing you'll remember, not least because of the genuine warmth Gigi, his brother Gaetano and the whole crew show you.

Tasting on the osteria terrace. Enologo Fortunato Sebastiano (yellow shirt) degustates with anonymous American

Oops! Dom without the Somm

I am a scemo.*

I intended to post another podcast of Dom & the Somm with Susannah Gold.  Somehow I recorded 'cast 2 over 'cast 1.  Really, I don't know what happened.  Forgive me, Susannah.  You should probably do the sound engineering thing next time. 

Anyway, here's the link to the latest thrilling episode of "Dom without the Somm":  click.

It's short -- 7-8 minutes.  

I tried the video version but the results were hideous to behold.  (Note to self: ALWAYS WEAR THE SHADES.)

 

It's all my fault!

* Halfwit, dummy, dope.

This ripasso: almost "pornographic"

This is a compliment, of course

Check out Bigger Than Your Head for a terrific review ("Excellent") of our newest offering from Veneto, the Villa Monteleone Campo San Vito ripasso 2004.

Click on photo to see bottle larger

I especially like this part:

The color here is almost motor-oil black, with a glowing blue/purple rim; the bouquet is minty and meaty, bursting with cassis, Damson plums, smoke, licorice and lavender and a whole boxful of dried spices. Yes, this is so exotic that it’s close to pornographic...

This is a wine that should be opened several hours ahead of serving, even decanted, to bring out all its aromas.  For my money, it has the rich depth of Amarone, but it is far more drinkable -- less heavy, less sweet, less alcoholic. More balanced and, yes, refreshing when it accompanies the right foods. 

Coming next week

Just a quick note to tell you that we will see the expansion of our portfolio reflected on the Domenico Selections web site in a week or so. Our little map of Italian regions will be enhanced by the addition of Basilicata, Abruzzo and Piemonte.  We'll also be adding producers in Veneto and Campania.  

And for the treat of treats, "Dom and the Somm" podcast numero due will be edited over the weekend and posted here and on avvinare early in the week.  

Until then have a nice weekend. 

Adone del Negro, organic winemaker from Abruzzo, killed in farming accident

Adone del Negro, 47, of Torano Nuovo an Controguerra in northern Abruzzo, was killed in a tractor accident as he worked in his vineyards last evening.  According to a report in a local news site, it is believed that the brake of the tractor hadn't engaged; it rolled over him, crushing him instantly.  Del Negro leaves behind his wife, Stefania Pepe of the Emidio Pepe winemaking family, and two small children, including a newborn.

Adone and Stefania in March 2009

We were fortunate enough to meet Adone in February here in New York.  We liked both his and Stefania's wines very much and went to visit them in March.  This hard-working, dedicated couple were a study in contrasts: the calm, even-keeled Adone and the firebrand Stefania.  The combination worked well; they complemented each other in work and life.  They were utterly devoted to each other and their growing family.

This is a terrible loss, not just for the family, but for the emerging culture of organic and biodynamic winemaking in Abruzzo.  

Our deepest sympathies are with Stefania and her young children.

Link here and here for earlier posts on Adone and Stefania.

Score magic

You hear about it, but you don't quite believe it until it happens to you.  

I refer, of course, to the 90 Point Effect.

Ever since the news of the high scores for our Soaves broke early Sunday, assisted by Jeff's instantaneous emails to everyone he knew in the biz, the phone calls and emails have been whirring in.  "I want two pallets."  "I'll start with 20 cases of this and 25 of that." And so on and so on.  Many of these breathless messages from people who had been giving our man in New Jersey the cold shoulder.

And suddenly the word allocation is in the air. 

Heady stuff indeed for a startup importer.

No, Christy, we won't forget our early friends and supporters.  But you better place your order soon.   

We break the 90-point barrier in WS

Today Wine Spectator posted to its web site the wine-review scores for the August 31 edition.  I Stefanini, our Soave producer, broke the 90-point barrier for Domenico Selections.  We are about to re-re-order.  We are pleased -- thrilled, in fact.

For it is a necessary thing that the wines you import earn a 90+ from one of the major dispensers of such grace.   It is indeed a gratifying form of validation for the producer and his/her representatives (importer, distributors, sales folks, retailers, etc., etc.)

Valentino Tessari, agronomo at I Stefanini, stands in front of the family home and, at left, the cantina

As I blurted the other day, we rather anticipated scores of 90 points or higher.  We got a more mixed bag of results with 3 of the 5 wines/vintages reviewed receiving 90 or more points.

Here is the link to the search I did on I Stefanini early today: link!

If you don't have a subscription to WS online, here are the scores:  

Waiting, waiting for the scores

We heard through the grapevine that some very pleasing scores will be published about a few of our wines next week.

I refer to Wine Spectator's web site, and subsequently the August 31 issue in print.  

The wines being reviewed are the Soaves from I Stefanini.  We don't know what the scores are but "they will help sales."  I think we all knows what that means: we shall exist no longer in the shadowlands of 88-89 points.

Could this be the one they love the best?

To those of you who knew me as the Strappo of yore on mondosapore, this bated-breath response to the promise of high scores may seem an unseemly and incredible regime change.  For, personally, I don't care a bit about scores; but as a partner in Domenico Selections, I have a different set of criteria of maximum satisfaction, and that is to sell more wine.  I love high scores.  I have always loved high scores.  

And trust me, I'll be the first to trumpet them if and when they appear in any context, from anyone.  No matter what anyone pretends, they are a powerful sign of validation of the producer and product that you've taken a gamble on.  High scores are a right good thing.

Today: US debut for four wines

After waiting about a month since the shipment arrived from Livorno, we're taking out our new wines today.  They're drinking well, over travel shock, and we think they're going to go over very well.  Jeff, who is working like a locomotive to get appointments to taste these wines, has lined up a pretty interested group of retailers.  

So what are these wine newbies?

For my part, I'm taking out three:

1. Villa Monteleone's fantastic San Vito ripasso 2004 (yes, folks, finally it's here and ready to try)

2. Musto Carmelitano's unoaked, cement-vatted Serra del Prete Aglianico del Vulture 2006 -- Betty's winery is our first in Basilicata, a real find. The other M C wine (the fourth of our title), an oaked Aglianico del Vulture, isn't quite ready to take out, in my opinion. Also a 2006, it needs some tannin-taming.

Note Betty Musto Carmelitano's stylish vineyard footwear.  No muddy boots for her

3. Mustilli's Vigna Segreta 2007 -- a Falanghina cru from the "Secret Vineyard."  This is Falanghina with body and age-worthiness.  The body comes from yield restriction, malolactic fermentation and no oak.

See you soon...

Who are you? What do you want? What IS your problem?

Ladies and germs, it has come to our attention repeatedly and, if I may editorialize for a mo, OFTEN that people who press the CONTACT SO-AND-SO AT DOMENICO SELECTIONS button in a section called, oddly enough, CONTACT, simply hit said button and send a dead email to us.

Please, if you press, do manage to say something.  You know, like, Where can I find your nectars of the gods?  or Hi, I'm Stuart and I'm OK!

Just, for the love of Bacchus and all that's sacredly crunk, say something!

We do get so lonely, so very lonely...