Wake up and hear the praise

 When the Mustilli sisters were in New York a couple of weeks ago, they promised Jeff that they would pass along recent wine-guide ratings that they had received in Italy.

Since the new ratings are indeed in Italian, I'll pass them along to you one at a time; translation is never as quick and easy as it seems it should be. Plus, some people have been hibernating a lot these past few days and would rather sleep through these short, gray days than actually do anything.

The first review is from the Duemilavini 2010 guide of the Associazione Italiana Sommelier (AIS), which selects 2000 (duemila) wines from around the country as the best and most characteristic of their particular regions or zones. 

 

Jump to the continuation (below) to read the translation of this review.

And here is the legend that explains the rating system. Sorry, I hope you can figure this out sans translation. Hint: the more bunches of grapes, the higher the rating. 

  

The introduction:

 

Leonardo Mustilli is an "engineer who transferred to agriculture" way back in 1976 when the rebirth of obscure local grapes, like Falanghina, was in its infancy. He courageously revived Falanghina, along with Greco di Tufo, Aglianico and Piedirosso, in an area then dedicated to Sangiovese, Barbera and Trebbiano. Scion of a family that had long produced bulk wines in Sant'Agata dei Goti, he remains responsible for the management of the winery. With his daughter [Anna] Chiara, the winemaker, and his family by his side, Mustilli he has presented us a battery of delicious wines, such as "Vigna Segreta" a 100% Falanghina, which has fascinating, soft perfume. Also flawless is the Aglianico "Cesco de Nece," full of fruit and drinking extremely well. 

"His family by his side" includes daughter Paola, who oversees the sales and marketing side of the winery, working in tandem with her sister Anna Chiara.

Vigna Segreta review:

Excellent concentration, lively nose with intense aromas of mimosa, wisteria, lychee, exotic fruits and underlying apple. Rich, full mouthfeel, marvelous acidity and a long long finish. In steel. Pairs well with pasta and sardines.

Cesco di Nece review:

Deep ruby color. On nose, pronounced aromas of sour cherry, plum, red flowers, Mediterranean herbs and balsam. Excellent structure and persistence combined with a refreshing acidity and vigorous tannins. 18 months in oak. Pairs well with sliced fillet of beef. 

Domenico Selections currently brings in two other Mustilli wines, the light and refreshing Piedirosso, which can be served where a Beaujolais would be appropriate; and the similarly light and very refreshing Falanghina Sant'Agata dei Goti, which is fine as a thirst-quenching aperitivo and with light meals.

Aside from the cost, I'd have to say that the main difference between the Vigna Segreta and Cesco di Nece vs. the Piedirosso and "regular" Falanghina is that the first two are most definitely food wines -- wine to drink with bigger, more complex plates. I like the Piedirosso and Falanghina for their versatility, their lower alcohol and their lively, refreshing tastiness, whether on their own or with "everyday" meals.