Panna means "cream," as in the famous panna cotta. It also means "breakdown," as in a car's ceasing to function. In the snow and the cold far from a suitable replacement.
So far none of the former, too much of the latter. After a scary 80-mile drive in dense fog (that's why it's called nebbiolo! the grape of the fogs!) on Monday night, on top of jet lag and so on -- with the transmission of the nifty Alfa station wagon skipping ominously with every shift of the gears -- the car completely died Tuesday morning, just a quarter mile from the intended destination. Don't get me started.
I can tell you it's freezing in Piemonte. Seriously cold. One winemaker said, "Cold is good for the vines. It kills all sort of little pests."
So we can safely assume that Barolo and area should be pest-free for a decade or two at least.
How do all those palm trees you see around Piemonte survive? I ask the locals and they don't know. I mean, it was recently almost zero Fahrenheit this month. Snow lies thick on the ground in towns like Barolo and Bra, and they look more like upstate New York than "sunny Eeeetaly." About as lively this time of year too. Deadsville, man. Nothing is open. Sensible people stay home and watch quiz shows hosted by the winsome Carlo Conti. (This last is a joke. This guy is like a nightmarish cross between Howie Mandel and Bob Barker.)
We've tasted many good-to-marvelous wines. Unfortunately, it may all come down to "let's make a deal." Interesting point: you taste so much during the day, all you want at dinner is a Coke or a beer. A beer. Then bed as early as possible.
Next up a minor detour of 4-5 hours to the Maremma, then Veneto. The new car (a Fiat Bravo of all the damned things) seems to be functioning well. It even has 6 gears, which leads one to hope. vroom vroom -- in little letters.
Uf. At least it was just a quarter mile. I was hoping to be in the Spanish version of your adventure, visiting a couple natural winemakers, one of them claiming the highest vineyards in Europe, in the Alpujarras (Sierra Nevada) South of Granada...take care, keep warm, caro Strappo!
Posted by: David J | 01/20/2010 at 01:38 PM
Were you guys the pests he was referring to?
Bundle up!
Posted by: JM | 01/20/2010 at 06:50 PM
JM, damn it. I hadn't thought of that. Bummeroo.
David J -- keeping warm here is a serious challenge in winter. I suspect the true Italy is the one you see now. Closed in & shivering to death.
Posted by: Strappo | 01/20/2010 at 06:56 PM
"in panne" means breakdown.
"panna" means "cream" or a off-white color
Posted by: eva orlowski | 01/20/2010 at 09:09 PM
that's what i get for trying to be witty
Posted by: Strappo | 01/21/2010 at 02:53 AM
Good luck in Tuscany and waiting for you in Veneto which is also cold and foggy.
Posted by: Lucia Raimondi | 01/21/2010 at 12:14 PM
Next time rent an Alfa 147!!!!!!! Like any good wine, sometimes ya gotta pay extra for a little joy......-J
Posted by: Biker Joe | 01/21/2010 at 09:37 PM
@ Terry,
Yesterday I was in Negrar for a medical visit (the same hospital you were recovered during pneumonia - see post on Mondosapore).
There was a marvellous scenario: all the vegetals (grass, bushes, trees) covered by a thin layer of ice which in fact is frozen fog.
It's named "galaverna" or "calinverna" and happens just a few days every winter.
I hope you had the chance to observe it.
ciao.
Posted by: Alex | 01/22/2010 at 06:29 AM