How to find new producers

Recently an importer of Italian wines told me, "You don't need to go to Italy to find new producers. You come to events like Italian Wine Week. You have friends in Italy who give you tips. Maybe there's an agent or two over there you can build a relationship with."

 

All good points. But they're not enough. You still need to go to Italy and root around the countryside. Here's why.

1. Tasting a sample bottle or two isn't enough. You get an idea of the winery's potential, but you have to go there and taste an entire range and multiple vintages. This is essential in evaluating the property's quality and character over the long haul.

2. Nosing around the countryside can be serendipitous. Sometimes you stop at a trattoria, start chatting with the regulars and pretty soon you've got a couple of names to call, wineries to visit, hidden gems to uncover. Most often they amount to nothing. But sometimes you find rubies.

3. Wine = (land + grapes) + (traditions x people). If you're going to make an investment in a wine, you'd better know the people you're investing in too. Is there a passion for what they do?  How are they doing it? Can you pretty much believe what they're telling you? Will they be easy to work with? Can you trust them to deliver what they say they will? While there's no foolproof way of knowing the answers to all these questions after you've met with them, it's infinitely harder to do if you interact only at a distance.

4. Firm, mutual commitment derives from trust and respect. And a shared belief in the character and quality of the wines.

  
 

I confess that I roll my eyes when people go on and on with the "wine is a living thing" bit. Wine is not a living thing. Just because it keeps changing in bottle doesn't mean it's alive. 

What is alive is the man or woman who made it. The family and workers who support this effort. The relationship these folks have defined with their patch of land and the realities of their locale -- climate, soils, grape varieties, traditions and constraints. This is what's alive. This is what you must know to understand and champion the wines they, and you, love.

 

 

Comments

[gianpaolo]

in comparison, it appears much easier to find new importers. That's easy, anyone who pays :)

[Domenico]

Ah payment. I hear some do have problems with that.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

[karen phillips]

Strongly agree on your thoughts about getting to know the winemakers as well as their wines.

[David J]

Got a lump in my throat reading that closing paragraph. You'd make a better Jonathan Nossiter than Jonathan Nossiter, if you wanted to, but why would you want to? --&c,&c...

[David J]

Avanti Popolo!/Avanti Popolo...

[Strappo]

Wouldn't want to be Nossiter. I want to be loved.

[Alex]

Nice post Strappo.
It seems that your approach has proven successfull :-))
ciao

[avvinare]

Ah caro terry. Bellissimo post. Of course you wouldn't want to be Nossiter and you are loved :)....