Italian Wine Week: An Air of Desperation

The big event started yesterday, giving the lie to its name. It's really more like "Italian Wine Two and a Half Days."  Despite the old-fashioned grandeur of the setting (the Waldorf Astoria Hotel), there is a hang-dog air of desperation hanging over the event. Never have masses of Italians been less ebullient. Never so many brows creased by frowns. Never have so many been so eager to play let's make a deal.

Producers ask if La Crisi is over with here, if we're on the rebound. No, not really. It's still like an economic Baghdad. A quagmire. A dull ache until the next mortgage bomb goes off. Message to producers: some dinky 20% discount won't even register. Go lower if you want to get rid of all that cellared wine the Germans and Scandinavians can't soak up.

Then there's still an issue of quality and style. I went to a seminar tasting moderated by Alfonso Cevola, aka The Italian Wine Guy. The subject was Calabrian wines. My personal verdict: No way Giosuè'.

Today should be interesting.  

 

 

Comments

[Gianni Lovato]

Wow! And to think that the Aussies haven't even begun to flood the markets with their humongous surplus. Yet.
Mamma mia!
Better start taking really good care of those olive trees, ragazzi.
Or maybe, just maybe....

[Strappo]

Ah the Aussies! A real spoiler in this game.

Another thought: if it weren't for huge agricultural subsidies, think how many of these producers would be selling life insurance or something really useful.

[Karen Phillips]

Hmmm.I read your blog after attending an informative wine tasting in Naples with 5 different Amalfi wine producers including Luigi Reale. I hope today goes much better!

[JM]

I was there and felt some of what you documented. The turnout seemed to be smaller than in past years. The reality of the situation is that people are still drinking and that's a good thing. Buyers are being cautious and I'm not convinced it's because of nerves. They have found if they sit back and wait there will be better wine at a better price knocking at their door. We've heard this loud and clear and have tried to relay the message to our current and potential suppliers. Everyone wants more for less and if you really want to sell wine you have to overwhelm with quality and price.